We drove to the waterfront at 8am – a stark part of the city with a few coloured “water toys” litering the sand and a dearth of vending machines promising cold yogurt drinks and orange pop. As we disembarked from the car we spotted on woman dressed in her customary niquab with a large portable radio blaring top 40 songs as she smoked perfumed, chocolatey tobacco through a shisha pipe.
